Tips To Control Racoon In Your Area


Raccoons are mammals that become problems when they raid garbage cans and bird/pet feeders, tear up gardens and lawns looking for food or use chimneys, attics, crawlspaces or hollow areas beneath porches and outbuildings for dens.  Raccoons can be very vicious when cornered or protecting their young.  They are the main carriers of rabies in our area and in the United States.

Raccoons are omnivores – they eat both plants and animals

Raccoons not only spread rabies through their saliva (which is 100% fatal in humans); they also spread raccoon roundworm eggs in their feces which cause damage to the liver, spleen, lungs, eyes, nervous system or possibly death in severe cases.  Roundworm occurs when the eggs are accidently ingested/inhaled after contacting contaminated feces.

Raccoons are very strong and agile.  They have elongated “fingers” that allow them to pry open garbage can lids, rip off shingles, flashing , roof decking, fascia (trim) boards, rooftop ventilators, crawlspace vents and doors, attic insulation, insulation on HVAC lines and ductwork, etc..

Raccoons will destroy gardens and lawns looking for vegetables, fruit, grubs (below sod), food scraps in garbage or compost, animal/bird food from feeders and other natural foods in the environment.

Raccoons will establish latrines throughout their dens.  In attics the feces and urine can stain the ceiling below – accompanied by an objectionable odor.  In crawlspaces and under decks and buildings their waste is often throughout and on the vapor barrier (if one exists).

Raccoons, as well as most wildlife, also carry a lot of ectoparasites (mites, fleas, ticks, bed bugs, etc.) which can infest adjacent living spaces especially after the animals are removed.

When capturing raccoons it is important to identify if the animal is a lactating female (breast feeding the young) so the nest can be located and the young also removed.

Raccoons are generally born in April or May (after the adults overwinter and mate) but earlier and later litters are not uncommon.

A raccoon litter will range from 3-6 babies which will grow to 2-3 feet long and weigh 10-30 pounds.  Family groups remain together for the first year then strike out on their own.

Because of the plentiful availability of food and den sites, and because of their intelligence and adaptability, urban and suburban raccoon populations can quickly become very large.


An initial thorough inspection is the most important part of solving a raccoon problem.

Raccoons are usually trapped alive and then removed

Raccoons have to be euthanized as required by law because of their high potential for rabies. Additionally, captured raccoons, if released would probably attack another dwelling.

In addition to repairing the destroyed entry, we utilized custom cut galvanized steel flashing and galvanized steel hardware cloth to reinforce the exclusion areas.  This is extremely important to prevent future infestations.

We also remove the feces/urine and associated contaminated materials and treat with organic decomposition materials to clean and deodorize the area.

If necessary, new insulation can be added by along with other repairs/replacement of vents, shingles, etc.

Finally, removal or securing any potential food sources will discourage new dominant raccoons from attempting to establish a new home site in the same area.

Contact PCA to have a state licensed wildlife damage control agent develop a plan of action to solve your raccoon problem and our associated warranty.


Raccoons can be major nuisances to homeowners and businesses for a variety of reasons. Most importantly, raccoons are carriers of parasites such as fleas and ticks as well as several highly infectious and dangerous diseases. Raccoons are a common carrier of rabies. Also, raccoons carry a highly infectious roundworm, that is potentially fatal to humans.

The raccoon’s dexterity can make them particularly pesky, as their long nimble fingers allow them to do things such as open garbage cans, turn knobs and work latches.

Besides the spread of disease, raccoons are known to cause a host of other problems for property owners, including:

Raiding garbage cans and spreading refuse across properties

Tearing up landscaping with their “grubbing” behavior as they dig for scarab beetles on which to feed.

Raccoons also become problematic when they use areas beneath decks, porches or sheds for their dens.

If you have pets, a raccoon infestation can lead to a violent encounter that could damage the health of both animals. Raccoons are known to be fierce fighters when cornered and have inflicted fatal wounds during encounters with even large dogs.

raccoon removal services

As your local pest control experts, i understands the stress and frustration that can be caused by a raccoon infestation. All Rentokil Technicians providing raccoon removal services are individually licensed to perform wildlife trapping as required by state law.

Raccoons are extremely difficult to remove from properties without specialized training. technicians attend monthly pest control training seminars so they can stay up-to-date with the best baiting and trapping practices in the industry

Tips on choosing a wildlife or pest control company

When considering hiring a company to come to your home to control an animal or pest problem, there are a few things you can do help insure you hire a reliable, capable and experienced company that you can trust in your home and to get the job done right.

Sometimes, you don’t have a lot of time. A lot can be written about hiring the right company but since wildlife and pest problems tend to happen suddenly or be of an emergency nature, you may not have time to spend and need a few quick ideas to help ensure the right choice. Examples might be a snake or bat in your living room, a noise in your attic keeping you awake all night or squirrels chewing their way into your attic. You need help quick!  That is what I will talk about here. Sometimes, you are not rushed but want to make a informed decision. You may have a bat colony in the attic, but they have not made it into the living space. Maybe a skunk under your shed. In these case’s you may have a little more time to do some research.   All the better. Start here and in the near future I will do part B, or more tips on choosing a wildlife and pest control company.

Expect who you hire to have liability insurance.   What we see is company’s claiming to have insurance coverage when they really do not.   Not only does this leave you, the customer vulnerable should an accident occur but it suggests that  someone who lies about insurance coverage might lie about other aspects of the  job or their company as well.  The simple solution is ask them to bring a copy of their liability insurance certificate.    Don’t be afraid to ask.  Anyone who does not have proof of insurance should be passed in your hiring decision.

Consider the length of time a company has been in business.   A  fact in the wildlife control business is that a lot of start up companies last about 2 years and then go out of business.  When dealing with so many animal and pest species in so many different situations,  it easily takes two years or more just to get enough experience to handle the many different calls that arise in this business.    A Raccoon may be in your chimney, in a garage loft, under the home in a crawl space or ripping shingles off your roof to gain entry. It may or may not have young racoon pups. I address all these and many more situations differently. It is seldom just a matter of setting a trap. The experience I have gained over the last 15 years has helped me solve these problems in the quickest and most efficient way with the least amount of stress to you the homeowner and the animals involved.   Ask the company how long they have been in the nuisance wildlife or pest control  business.  Five years experience is not to much to ask.

Ask the potential company if they are licensed. Believe it or not, this is a problem in Connecticut. Recently, someone who lives on my street was arrested for hiring himself out to remove nuisance raccoons, skunks and wildlife. When a problem with the charges to the customer and the actual work itself developed, it was discovered that this person had no license for wildlife work.

Squirrels, Raccoons or Bird control

Squirrels and Raccoons

Squirrels and Raccoons may seek shelter, entering your home through an open hole(s) or creating their own entrance to warmth. Once they feel comfortable inside, Squirrels and Raccoons may choose to stay even when the weather turns warm again

We will inspect the entire premise thoroughly to find all squirrel openings. We will use repellent, bait and trapping methods to flush the squirrels / raccoons out of the occupied areas. Setting traps is also a part of the control procedure and will depend on the recommendations of your professional pest control operator. Upon elimination of the pests, our technician will patch and close all accessible openings they’ve created up to 12″ in diameter and 18″ in length. (Ladder work up to 30 ft high only.) We will also take necessary action to eliminate any additional pest the squirrels/raccoons may have been carrying on them. This will further protect you, your family and your home.

Raccoons & Wildlife

A raccoon is located in the walls, attic, or roof areas of a dwelling (or any other areas that are not common areas). In these circumstances, you can either purchase a humane animal trap from a hardware or pest control retailer (such as Lowe’s or Home Depot), or contact a Licensed Wildlife Control (removal) agency.  We will retrieve a raccoon from your location once it has been trapped for a fee or you may deliver the raccoon to our 111 West Hunting Park Avenue location. *Please note per law that prohibits us from re-releasing, all adult raccoon brought to euthanized (killed).

Healthy wildlife is found in yards, streets, parks, etc.  These animals should be left alone and trapping of healthy wildlife is prohibited under state law with the exception of certain, special circumstances.  If they are brought to the shelter, per law many CANNOT be relocated-they will be euthanized (killed).  Use the resources provided above to deter these animals from frequenting your neighborhood.

FOUND A BABY ANIMAL? Please scroll to the bottom of the page for more information.

Although Philadelphia is a large city, it is not uncommon to observe wildlife walking about on neighborhood streets—even during the daylight hours.Trapping is an ineffective way to eliminate wildlife from your neighborhood. As long as food and shelter is available, neighboring animals will move in

If you are concerned about wildlife near your property, there are several precautions you can take:

Use metal garbage cans with secure lids. Use bungee cord or wire to secure the lids. Place cans in a rack or tie them to a post to prevent raccoons from tipping them over.

Do not leave bags of trash in front of your property or on the sidewalk.  Most wildlife are drawn to the smell of trash and, if they can access it easily, will consider your property a nice place to eat.

Do not put food on the ground for birds or other animals.  If you are feeding birds, make sure you use a commercial bird feeder that wildlife cannot access.  If you are feeding feral cats, always place food in a container and pick it up after a short time.

Repair all holes and openings in your roof, siding, porch, etc.  Wildlife will often gain entry to properties through weak structures and take up residence.

Trim tree branches that overhang rooftops. If possible, a gap of at least 5 feet should exist between the tree and your roof.

Remove trellises and arbors that can give raccoons and other wildlife access to your roof.

Use Philly311 to contact Philadelphia License and Inspections and report abandoned or dilapidated homes and city code violations in your area that wildlife has inhabited.

Cover chimneys with a spark arrester that meets fire code. Make sure no animals are nesting inside your chimney before covering it.

Cover open spaces beneath structures such as porches, decks, and tool sheds with 10-gauge 1/4- or 1/3-inch galvanized hardware mesh. The bottom edge of the wire should be buried at least 6 inches deep, extended outward for 12 inches, and then back-covered with soil. This will also keep out skunks, opossums, squirrels and rats.

Ordinary fences can be made raccoon-proof by adding a single strand of electrified wire about 8 inches from the ground and 8 inches from the base of the fence. A two-wire electric fence can be used to exclude raccoons from gardens. The two wires are fastened on evenly spaced wooden posts; one wire is 5-6 inches above the ground and the other is 10-12 inches above the ground. The fence charger needs to be activated from dusk to dawn. (Make sure that you install properly and identify with warning signs.)